1) The volume of flow is low enough to allow the water to cascade down the walls of the standpipe, leaving an undisturbed column of air in the middle. Standpipe BasicsĪ standpipe can only run silently under two conditions. The setup is a balancing act that is never really quite or stable at the same time. We all recognize this as the flushing sound that an unmodified standpipe (or out of adjustment Durso/Stockman) makes. If it can not pull air, it pulls more water and creates a siphon that quickly empties the overflow box. Water falling down through a pipe will pull air with it. The Durso and Stockman modifications are simply means of changing where the air enters the standpipe. It quickly become clear that all of these methods still produce noise and that the quieter they are, the less stable they are. I attempted several Durso and Stockman style modifications and many variants thereof. To make a long story short, I was unable to silence the overflow. Based on observation and available data (some of it Anthony’s own) I agree with his conclusions. Anthony is a huge proponent of maximizing surface skimming. With some advice from Anthony Calfo (who is also a local club member!) I settled upon a coast-to-coast overflow design, A.K.A a Calfo Overflow. Furthermore, during the initial setup phases of my system I had a few small floods.Īfter doing a lot of research I learned that long overflow boxes are desirable for their superb surface skimming abilities. Noise of any kind is simply not an option that I can live with. The equipment side of the tank is a small room adjacent (and open) to my home office. My tank is an in-wall design that is setup in the rear wall of my home theater. In addition to the noise and instability, most types of standpipes introduce large volumes of bubbles into the sump that find their way to the return pump and back into the display. Many a reefer loses sleep at night due to noise or worries of a flood caused by a malfunctioning or clogged overflow. The most common problems are noise and reliability. Also, an absolute must with this system, is on the trickle, you have to have the cap drilled out on the top with the rodi line clipped to your max water level in the overflow, so that if it ever gets up that high, the trickle turns into a full siphon.There are many types of overflow setups for use in aquaria, most have inherent design flaws or shortcomings that we just accept and live with. I didn't make sure the lines terminate at least an inch below the sump water level, and upon start up, I couldn't get a siphon started as there was air in the lines. If you have no emergency, I think you are not going to like the set up, as a flood will be imminent at some point! Mine is dead silent, however I only use one ball valve on the full. As far as I have understood, the valve on the full siphon restricts flow to more than the pipe can handle devoid of air, thus the trickle takes on the flow silently around the interior of the pipe, nice and laminar like for the remainder of the flow not taken by the full line. How does your system maintain full siphon on the full line without being submerged in the overflow via downturned elbows? I think they serve two purposes, one maintaining an 8th inch off the bottom keeps critters out, as well as the full siphon is what makes the thing silent.
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